The Use of Emollients for Atopic Eczema

Review Article

Austin J Allergy. 2015; 2(1): 1018.

The Use of Emollients for Atopic Eczema

Raone B, Ravaioli GM*, Dika E, Neri I, Gurioli C and Patrizi A

Department of Specialized, Diagnostic and Experimental Medicine, University of Bologna, Italy

*Corresponding author: Giulia Maria Ravaioli, Department of Specialized, Diagnostic and Experimental Medicine, Division of Dermatology, University of Bologna, Italy

Received: October 13, 2015; Accepted: November 12, 2015; Published: November 16, 2015

Abstract

Atopic Eczema (AE) is a frequent inflammatory skin disease with chronic relapsing course. It can affect patients of all ages and have dramatic impact on their quality of life.

The baseline therapy of AE is represented by environmental interventions together with topical treatment: moisturizers and emollients, corticosteroids or calcineurin inhibitors. Systemic therapy and phototherapy are reserved for severe cases.

Emollients are the mainstay of first-line intervention: they hydrate and soften the skin and act as restorers or replacers of the epidermal barrier, which is often damaged or impaired in AE. Over and above the varying ingredients, formulations, strategy of action, costs and innovation, the three key-points of both the older and the latest emollients are: hydration against dryness, protection from pathogen bacterial colonization, relief from pruritus and from other symptoms.

The purpose of our review was to describe the classes of emollients (firstgeneration, second-generation and third-generation emollients, together with most innovative products) and their composition (oils, ointments, creams, richin- water substances), and also to illustrate the main trials that established their efficacy and safety in adults and children.

The use of emollients in AE is currently recommended with a Grade of Recommendation A and Level of Evidence I, and they can be administrated for primary prevention, as well as for acute treatment and for secondary prevention and maintenance.

In conclusion, emollients are an optimal source for baseline therapy against AE, as they are appropriate and suitable for long-term schedules and for all ages. Moreover their use can lead to the control of the disease or reduce the need of topical steroids and of systemic drugs.

Emollients must be used daily and consistently and they are especially appropriate for mild-moderate chronic AE.

Keywords: Atopic eczema; Atopic dermatitis; Emollients; Moisturizers; Xerosis; Epidermal barrier function

Abbreviations

AE: Atopic Eczema; AD: Atopic Dermatitis; NMF: Natural Moisturizing Factor; FLG: Filaggrin; LEKTI or SPINK5: Lymphoepithelial Kazal-Type 5 Serine Protease Inhibitor; TEWL: Transepidermal Water Loss; PED: Prescription Emollient Device; SCORAD: Scoring Atopic Dermatitis Index; IGA: Investigator Global Assessment; QoL: Quality of Life; EASI: Eczema Area and Severity Index

Introduction

Atopic Eczema (AE), is a chronic inflammatory skin disease, characterized by pruritic and eczematous lesions and often associated with other forms of atopy, such as food allergies, asthma and rhinitis. AE mainly affects children, although it also occurs in many adolescents and adults.

Atopic Dermatitis (AD) is synonymous with AE; its persistent and often relapsing course can dramatically deteriorate the quality of life of patients and their families. Due to its high prevalence in industrialized countries, which has been increasing rapidly in recent years, AE has become a major worldwide medical and socioeconomic issue.

A large number of studies have documented that the pathogenesis of AE is primarily related to the disruption of the epidermal barrier function. This impairment involves the skin of the entire body surface, which carries intrinsic and/or externally induced abnormalities [1-4]. In view of this, over the last decades numerous trials have focused on the use of topical emollients for AE. Many new devices were and are being developed and validated by pharmaceutical companies, with the introduction of innovative ingredients and enriched formulations directed to restore the barrier components. In particular, the newest products include substances that act to preserve the lipid layer.

When applied to the whole body surface, emollients represent an optimal and effective treatment of AE, both for their therapeutic properties and for their primary and secondary preventive action. Moreover, they are well tolerated and suitable for both adults and children. Therefore, in all the most recent guidelines worldwide, emollients are described as an effective source for the prevention and therapy of AE, together with other moisturizers and preservatives of the skin barrier.

However, no standardized measures for using epidermal barrier restorers have yet been validated, and no specific instructions about the frequency and the amount of substances to use for each application have been established for baseline acute or maintenance treatment of AE, nor for its prevention.

The Role of Epidermal Barrier Dysfunction in the Pathogenesis of AE

Epidermal barrier dysfunction has been described by several studies as the primary contributor to the multifactorial development of AE, as well as of other allergic diseases. Xerosis, which consists of markedly dry skin, is a main clinical feature of AE and it results from a disrupted skin barrier function.

In particular the stratum corneum is the most important layer of the skin in retaining water and regulating permeability. Physiologically it is composed of corneocytes and continuous intercellular lamellar formations consisting of lipids: cholesterol, ceramides and free longchain saturated fatty acids [5-6]. Lipids and corneocytes are bound together and represent the two backbones of the epidermal barrier integrity. A poor lipid content of the stratum corneum is more likely associated with AE, where in particular the amount of ceramides is reduced [6-11].

The Bowstra’s group demonstrated in particular the reduction in the carbon chain length of free fatty acids and ceramides, together with an increase in unsaturated free fatty acids, in the stratum corneum of AE patients (both in lesional and non-lesional skin) [12].

Corneal hydration is also essential for the integrity of the barrier function and it is guaranteed by the production of Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), a highly hygroscopic substance mainly derived from a protein named Filaggrin (FLG) [5-8,13,14].

The integrity of the skin barrier can be weakened by alterations of the gene encoding FLG. FLG represents the main component of epidermal keratohyalin granules; its role is essential for the epidermal differentiation program as well as for the maintenance of skin hydration [5,13-15]. In particular there is experimental evidence about the indispensable role of FLG in epidermal differentiation process, derived from both “in vivo” and “in vitro” studies. One very interesting investigation on a three-dimensional reconstructed human epidermis for example was carried out by Pendaries et al., evidencing deficient keratinocyte differentiation due induced FLG downregulation[16]. Moreover FLG expression was widely recognized as a differentiation marker of the transcriptional program of cultured as well as stem-cell derived human epdermal keratynocites [17,18].

Therefore, patients with mutations of FLG are more likely to develop dry skin, known as xerosis, and are more susceptible to come into contact with allergens [15,19-22]. Some particular Anatomical patterns of dermatitis, together with abnormalities in corneocyte morphology, have also been associated with FLG mutations [23-26].

The expression of FLG can also be reduced by the action of epigenetic factors, such as the environment, lifestyle and infections. In particular, recent studies affirm that low humidity, low temperatures and lack of UVB exposure lead to a general decrease in skin barrier function [27,28].

Other important factors causing epidermal barrier dysfunction are: reduced synthesis of omega-3 and omega-6-derived fatty acids, depletion of sphyngosine, loss of inhibition of serine protease due to polymorphisms of Lymphoepithelial Kazal-Type 5 Serine Protease Inhibitor (LEKTI or SPINK5) and Human Kallikrein (KLK) protease, or gain of protease activity leading to aberrations of the metabolism of lipids, especially ceramides [5,29]. In particular, a gained expression of the enzyme sphingomyelinase has been reported to entail a depletion of ceramides in the skin stratum corneum. In fact this enzyme is indispensable for converting sphingolipids into mature ceramides [30].

All these factors disrupt the epidermal barrier function, determining an increase in Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL), even before the onset of AE. This process often leads to dryness of the skin, which in turn often determines inflammation of eczematous skin.

For this reason, any dysfunction of the epidermal barrier represents an etiopathogenic contributor to the development of a vicious cycle culminating in AE, inducing skin dehydration and increased susceptibility to allergens, microbes as Staphylococcus aureus, leading to the release of cytokines and other inflammatory mediators. The inflammation of the skin can induce excessive scratching, which further damages the barrier function [31-33].

Moreover, the pH of the skin surface is often increased in patients with AE. Alkaline conditions can determine abnormal modulations of the skin microbiome and delay the processes of skin repairing. For example they can facilitate the colonization by Staphylococcus Aureus [3,6,34,35].

It has been demonstrated that infants develop definitive adultlike functions of water-sustaining skin barrier only after their first year of life, although their skin stratum corneum is intact since birth [36-37]. This is due to varying compositions of the skin layer in the different phases of life. In particular, the epidermis of infants is thinner than that of adults, and composed of smaller corneocytes and keratinocytes. Skin hydration is poor among infants in their first month of life, but higher than in adults after the second month of life [6]. An electron microscopy isotropy score was recently developed by Fluhr JW et al, investigating the distribution of corneodesmosin and corneodesmosomes in different age groups. It was confirmed the poorly controlled process of corneocyte desquamation in infants and immaturity of the epidermal barrier up to 1-2 years after birth [38].

The impairment of the skin barrier function is probably the reason why the incidence of AE is higher among infants than in adults, usually healing after childhood. Since these data were documented, some clinical trials have tested the preventive role of the protectors of the skin barrier in predisposed infants, to prevent the AE development [19].

Moisturizers-Emollients: Mode of Action and Classes of Products

Emollients are substances that have a softening and soothing effect on the skin. They have the power to moisturize and restore the epidermal barrier functions, performing a therapeutic action on AE symptoms. Their main action is directed against xerosis and TEWL, which are two mainstays of the pathogenesis of AE.

Besides emollient, topical moisturizers can have occlusive and humectant effect. In particular:

-Most agents have the power to soften and lubricate the skin: for example propylene glycol, soy sterols and glyceryl stearate. These substances act as emollients.

-Substances with a more specific occlusive action, creating a barrier that reduces TEWL, include petrolatum-based products, colloidal oatmeal, mineral oils and dimethicone [39].

-Some other ingredients may exert a wetting action, attracting water molecules and enhancing fluid retention, such as glycerol, urea and ammonium lactate. Wetting agents represent a first-line therapeutic choice against skin xerosis in AE. The percentage of hydrophilic substances that are contained in these products can vary. For example, the level of urea used in AE ranges from 5 to 20% depending on the type and site of lesions and on the age of the patient [6,40,41].

Emollient, occlusive and/or humectant agents can be contained separately or together in the topical devices specific for AE.

Their water amount has only a short-term restoring effect on the skin.

Topical moisturizers can be incorporated in formulations with different viscosity: creams, lotions, oils, ointments, gels. Most emollients are commercialized as emulsions. Traditional emulsions consist of a mixture of lipids in water, with different percentages, bound together by an emulsifier. All these traditional products are often named oil-in-water emollients. Several specific agents, such as thickeners, perfumes and preservatives, may be added.

It is important that patients with AE use an emollient of their choice, in order to obtain better compliance and effectiveness with the treatment. An ideal emollient product should be able to replace the lipids of the barrier and to implement skin hydration, to calm pruritus and burning sensation, to have an anti-inflammatory action and to contrast pathogen microbes. Moreover, it should have a good scent, be as sterile as possible, not contain irritant preservatives or topical allergens, and contain perfumes only when tested and approved. Its application should be easy for patients of all ages, being not too greasy and not interfering with any other treatment.

For example, devices with a higher percentage of lipids and fatty substances are more appropriate for the colder months. In particular, ointments are usually well tolerated by the skin, because they contain less preservatives that could cause irritation. However, some patients with AE may not tolerate too greasy substances, preferring lotions or gels, which are lighter and richer in water. On the other hand, these highly hydrated delivery systems can be less effective because of faster evaporation once they are applied on xerotic epidermis [41].

Some products have been commercialized including two or more formulations each, varying the degree of viscosity: for example, one specific for the face and the other more suitable for the remaining body areas. Moreover, some formulations can be specific for the phases of AE: for example, some lines of products include specific formulations for secondary prevention and for flares.

Emollients of all classes usually need preservation, in order to avoid deterioration and contamination. Physical preservation consists in creating an external environment that is hostile for microbes. This method should be preferred to chemical agents. It can be obtained mainly by reducing the “Water Activity” of the substance, which represents the amount of water that is available for bacterial growth [42]. Several substances, for example glycols, alcohol, polysaccharides, glycerin, xanthan and carbomer, reduce the “Water Activity”. Another option for obtaining physical preservation is the use of patented devices, as the D.E.F.I® air-tight closure. This is a “steril” packaging closure technology, with a cap that consists of four parts including a supple membrane that rises when pressure is applied to the tube and then resumes the closed position when pressure is released [43].

FDA has recognized several compounds that have skin protective activity [44].

In particular, emollients are classified into 3 different classes:

First-generation emollients

Vaseline or paraffin oil, lanoline, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, together with hydrophilic polymers. Some often-used molecules from the first group are: octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and isostearyl alcohol encompassed in the group of the fatty alcohols; stearic, isostearic, oleic and palmitic acids in the group of fatty acids. On the other hand, the group of polymers includes glycosaminoglycans, like hyaluronic acid and chitosan, collagen, gelling polysaccharides like xantan or gums, and other high weight macromolecules.

First-generation emollients mainly act as hygroscopic and/or occlusive factors. Occlusive factors must be used carefully to avoid maceration as a possible undesired effect.

Second-generation emollients

Humectants such as glycerol, sorbitol, urea (3, 5 or 10-20%), ammonium lactate, polyethylene glycol; NMF substitutes; carboxylic pyrrolidonate derivate; amino acids as L-isoleucine. These agents work as real restorers of the epidermal barrier function and of skin hydration.

Third-generation emollients

physiological lipids that act as a barrier repair therapy, such as ceramides, cholesterol, omega-3 or omega-6 polyunsaturated fatty acids (for example, respectively alfa-linolenic and alfa-linoleic acids). These products protect the integrity of the skin barrier; in particular they induce the epidermal differentiation process and replace the gaps between the corneocytes.

Most recent advances in barrier repair therapy developed the 3:1:1 ceramide-dominant formula as the correct proportion of epidermal lipids to be included within emollients: respectively ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids [45].

New products have been recently commercialized, including the BioMimic® and the Lipigenium® formulas. The Lipigenium® formula is one of the most innovative emollients developed for the therapy of AE. Its composition consists in biomimetic lipids, such as ceramides and phytosphingosine, and essential fatty acids, that induce the creation of a healthy and lasting skin barrier. Lipigenium® was included in different formulations and tested both in vivo and in vitro.

Features of different classes of emollients are summarized in Table 1.