Comparative Study between Slasher or Sheet Denim and Rope Denim

Review Article

Adv Res Text Eng. 2022; 7(1): 1070.

Comparative Study between Slasher or Sheet Denim and Rope Denim

Haque MM1*, Rizvi MSH2, Shahriar FF3, Karmakar SAK4, Hossain M5, Hai A6 and Gosh A1

1Daffodil International University, Dhaka, Bangladesh

2Executive Director, Universal Denim Ltd, Bangladesh

3Fabric Merchandiser, JM Resource Co. Ltd, Bangladesh

4Deputy Manager (Dyeing & Sizing) Aaron denim ltd, Bangladesh

5MTO-IE, Fakir Apparels Ltd, Bangladesh

6MTO-IE, Beximco Textile Division, Bangladesh

*Corresponding author: Md Mahbubul Haque, Daffodil International University, Dhaka, Bangladesh

Received: March 15, 2022; Accepted: April 07, 2022; Published: April 14, 2022

Abstract

Denim is one of the most important RMG products made from the colored warp and white weft. The warp is colored before sizing in the preparatory processes. There are mainly two important routes of preparatory processes for producing the weaver’s beam e.g. (i) slasher or sheet denim and (ii) Rope denim. After the production of the weaver’s beam, the weaving is the same as usual. It is widely believed that the two routes of making the weavers beam attributes many differences in the ultimate fabric. The work reported in the paper is an analytical comparison between the impact of the two routes on weaving and fabric characteristics. The study was conducted in a reputed denim manufacturing industry located in Dhaka Bangladesh having both slasher and rope denim facilities. It was revealed that in the case of rope the elongation or stretching of warp yarn is more in rope dyeing than that occurs in a slasher. Regarding the method of spinning, it was observed that the elongation of the ring-spun yarns was more than that of open-end spun yarns. It was also observed that the higher the set length the higher was elongation or stretching of the warp yarns. The single warp yarn tension recorded on the loom was found to vary too much for the slasher beam than that obtained from the rope beam. The warp breakage in the loom is more in the slasher beam than that in the rope beam. Due to more breakage in the loom, the fabric quality of slasher beams is slightly inferior to that of rope. The production capacity of rope is almost double or more than that of slashers. The dyeing and washing characteristics of rope denim fabrics are better than that of slasher, which was due to the greater capacity of the dye boxes and dyeing in rope form. In the cases of all other fabric characteristics too, the rope denim is somewhat better than slasher denim. The consumption of water and utilities (steam supply, air compressor, etc.) are much higher for rope arrangement than the sheet. It seems that the differences are not much significant except dyeing characteristics.

Keywords: Shasher denim; Rope denim; Elongation; Individual warp tension

Introduction

Apparel mainly trousers made from denim is one of the most successful and widely used apparel and industrial products in the world. Denim trousers have long been popular among people of various ages, at present it is regarded as one of the most fashionable dress by the young generations. Though the majority of products are trousers in few cases products like shirts and jackets are made from denim fabric. Denim is probably the only brand or class of fabric where the warp yarn is dyed before weaving and sizing. The major steps adopted in making denim fabric are winding, warping, dyeing & sizing, and weaving. For the dyeing of warp yarn, a very special processing arrangement is incorporated before the sizing section. Another important aspect of denim warp dyeing is that in most cases indigo/vat dye is used while in some cases Sulphur black is used to get black shade. In very few cases a brown color is used. There are mainly two routes of dyeing warp yarns e.g. sheet or slasher dyeing/ denim and rope dyeing/denim. The sheet or slasher dyeing is almost the same as traditional warping, sizing, and weaving except that the dyeing section is incorporated before sizing and the whole process (up to sizing) is continuous. The rope dyeing is completely different having lots of stages and the yarns are dyed as a group or rope and after dyeing the yarns are sized in a separate sizing machine. Being denim garments are highly fashionable and popular, competition among manufacturers of fabric and garments is very high. Therefore, buyers are using their all sorts of skill and expertise to ensure that best fabric is acquired in terms of quality and price. It is widely believed in the industry and related fields that the two methods of dyeing warp yarns mentioned above contribute various attributes to the quality and cost of denim fabrics, the two methods of dyeing denim are also a matter of interest among the experts, faculty members, and students. Considering these facts, an attempt has been made in this paper to study and compare the two methods of dyeing denim warp yarns. The work was carried out in the Aaron Denim Mills Ltd. Situated in Narshingdhi Dhaka. The data were mainly collected as part of our theses. Thus, the referred two processes differ in making the weaver’s beam; winding, weaving, and subsequent processes are the same.

Attempts have been made to find published works related to the topic, it was disappointing to report, so far the authors are concerned very little information was available. It was noticed that there is a large number of works of literature on various aspects of denim e.g. environmental issues, fabric properties, and their performances, and various aspects of denim garments washing, etc. Aggarwal and Balasubramanian [1], Dhananjay D, et al. [2], and Ramesh N, et al. [3] all worked on imperfect stretch during sizing and reported that excessive sizing stretch can cause a loss in elongation leading to warp breakage. Beena JJ [4] studied environmental concerns about denim manufacturing reported that green practices do not always create a burden for industry; she added that traditional green practices which have reduced waste and improved business results must now be taken to strategic focus. Mohammad Mahmudun Nobi, et al. [5] did a thesis entitling “Study on Rope denim”, they reported various advantages of rope denim but did not give any quantitative information. Ejajul Hoque and GM Faysal [6] mentioned that a huge amount of water is required in processing denim yarns.

Production Flow Chart of Manufacturing Denim Fabric

As already mentioned, denim is manufactured using two routes of making the weaver’s beam that contains colored warp yarns. There are no differences in weaving, i.e. weaving is carried out in the same looms available in the loom shed. Figure 1 shows the production flow chart. It shows the two routes of making the weaver’s beam.